Café Paulin

I was recommended by my boss that I should check out this café around the corner from the office because I told him I like to go to different places for lunch to see what and how the local eat. It was quite a place that it has now been added to my 'have-to-check-out' list when family and friends come visit!

One of the BsAs characteristics is definitely its café culture. They are everywhere and there are many famous historical ones that one has to check out. There are quite a few in San Telmo and it's like going back in time when you sit there and sip your coffee. Having checked out quite a few of them already, Café Paulin is pretty much the same that the decor has stopped in time but its set up for sure makes it stand out from the others.

Café Paulin is not big at all. The whole place is taken up by this very looong bar and people sit all around it to eat. Think rotating sushi bar. Inside the bar, that's where the servers work, and they are all in uniforms, including wearing this mini-version chef hat, so cute! I ordered my lasagna and café con leche, sat there and watched how things went down there. The mozo (waiter) took orders from customers, served them, communicated with the ktichen with this tiny microphone embedded in the top shelf, catching dishes sweeped through the long bar from one end to another... all of these happened in such swift efficiency, it's almost like clockwork. While the eating table was a bit lower than the seat, I can't say it's the most comfortable eating position. However, I felt like I'm part of them and I absolutely love it!

My old love

Went to San Telmo today, reminiscing all of my first encounters in this barrio (neighborhood) which has played a big part in my attachment to this city. You can still see and feel a lot of the old world here, with 100-year-old cafes in their old self still open for business; cobblestone streets which you have to watch where you step or else you may risk springing your ankle by walking into a hole (ladies, absolutely bad idea to wear heels in this area); European-style antique buildings with beautiful architectural design outlined by years and years of dust and dirt… I can go on and on about how much characters this area has. I continued to discover new things every time I walked around.

Including today, I saw new things there; in fact, quite a bunch of them. Other than lots of repaving going on (great news for ankles), new stores, which could only be found in the more ‘proper’ area before, have now opened shops in San Telmo, like Freddo (known for being the BEST ice cream in BA), Havanna (the latin coffee chain, move over Starbucks!) and some trendy clothing stores. It was quite an OMG to see Freddo there (last year, I had to get my ice cream fix some 30mins away). At the same time, however, I got a bit sad that, like many other places on earth, the innocence and the authenticity of this place is slowly being camouflaged by all these businesses because of economical reasons. Looks to me that the status of San Telmo in tourism has jumped even higher in the last year or so. These new shops took over spots that were previously local kioskos where you could grab that gum you need. They became competitors to many one-of-a-kind home-style shops, like there is one very cute ice cream shop that sells home-made ice cream, and Freddo is now located, well, right across from it. Btw, is it totally hypocritical of me for saying all these but then I’d still choose to eat Freddo instead?? If you got to try it, I’m very sure that you’d forgive me completely and would even put your hand up and say ‘I’m totally with you on that Iso.’

Anyway, the point is I’m so going to find a place to live in San Telmo!

Connected once again

Got in yesterday afternoon. A local friend whom I´ve met last year when I was here came to pick me up with a remis (car service). Lots and lots of thanks to him because it'd be much more difficult for me to get from point A to point B with 4 pieces of luggages and broken spanish with a very exhausted mind. I settled down in my rented room at around 9-ish (expected to be able to move in at around 5-ish pm but this is AGAIN Argentine 'time' so ya, 4 hours later), and it finally hit me that I'm here. I started to freak out a bit and it was really the first time I felt worried and scared about all these. Anyway, with no internet or TV at my new home, I decided to close my eyes and sleep it off.

Sleeping always helps! Got up, energized, got some money and I went to get a SIM card (refer to as el Chip here). 15 minutos later, voila! I´m connected and normal again!! The chip costed me 20 pesos and then just needed to add money to it by buying a card with the PIN at any kiosko. They come in different amounts and I got a 15 pesos one that should last me a while. Texting out costs 0.17 pesos and calling out costs 0.55 pesos , and I believe even receiving calls doesn´t cost me a dime except if someone calls me from a payphone. So sorry if you´re calling me from a payphone...

As you can see, my room really is just a room. Nothing stellar. The most colorful places are el baño (bathroom) and la cocina (kitchen). We use gas stove here and need the flicker (how do you call those?) to get the fire going. At least the owner has one of those, last year when I was at my friend´s place, we used matches. Yes matches! Scared the crap out of me at first but slowly the ´excitement´became an addiction. I´d boil water just so I could show that I could do it.

For the price I´m paying right now for this room and being in Congreso (a very central location), it´s really an absolute steal so I´m not complaining for having a roof over my head. (Please don´t let this scare you away from visiting. There are many super nice places you can rent from that will make your jaw drop. I am just going hippie style over here and watching my wallet.) Nonetheless, I am going to look for a new home very soon since the agreement to this is only for 2 months, and I still really really want to live in my favorite barrio (neighborhood), San Telmo. More on that later.

Top picture: Disclaimer - that Jack Daniel bottle you see on the desk was filled with water. I freaked out but not that freaked out.